THE GRAND BAZAAR
- Jul 22, 2014
- 3 min read
Updated: Jun 10, 2022
The world’s oldest shopping mall is on the “must see” list of every visitor to Istanbul. A maze of old streets and alleys first plotted in Byzantine times, the Grand Bazaar may be the fastest way in Istanbul never to be heard from again. In its Ottoman Empire hay day this was the ultimate “Oriental Market” – the place where goods from the East and West were exchanged. A market of markets, the Bazaar originally featured bedestends – complexes of related shops dedicated to a particular craft or product like Silver, Carpets, Silk, Spices, Jewelry, etc. Today it is more geared to tourists but still a rich experience not to be missed.
The tram from Kabataş drops us at Beyazit Gate, one of many entrances to the Grand Bazaar. Sierra and Aleah, our guides for the day, bound off the train and command “this way!”
Our shopping list is specific – a mosaic glass light for Joelle’s room, backgammon board for the family, a few small gifts, and something Hannah likes. The only daunting item on the list is the last one but, with over 4,000 shops now in our sights, we are optimistic.
In less than 30 minutes Jo has succeeded in picking out the perfect ensemble of three Turkish mosaic glass globes that hang together from the ceiling to make a stunning lamp for her bedroom. We liked it a little too much so when it came time to negotiate the price the turkey salesman already knew he had us.
Lesson learned, our indifference toward the Backgammon boards lining each shop couldn’t be greater. “Starting price for tourist $3,500 Turkish Lira, but for you, because you speak to me in Turkish, only $1,500,” says our Backgammon Salesman to Sierra, whose language skills have impressed him. “Ok, $1,200.” And then, “$900 and I will throw in chips made of bone, normally $100 Lira.” Sierra has him on the ropes now.
“It is still a lot for a backgammon board” Sierra counters.
“Ok, how much do you think? Make me offer and at least give me a chance to earn your business today.” Now we are negotiating.
“I wouldn’t go more than $700”, Sierra whispers.
“How about $700 and we pay by credit card, not cash?” we finally offer up.
“How about $800” and I also give you a nice carrying case?” our guy offers and starts to wrap it up in paper and put it in a bag.
“No, no. $700.”
“Ok, $750 and you pay by credit card.”
We decline. Turn and walk out. As we step out of his shop, we hear…
“Ok, $700 Turkish Lira. I will give you special chips, special case, and you pay by credit card, not cash.”
After a small huddle in the hallway amongst the six of us, we agree – it is a fair price.
Backgammon board in tow, Sierra navigates us to the silver bedestand where she and Aleah know a secret passage that takes you to the rooftop overlooking the courtyard and covered roofs. The surprised looks from Silversmiths working in their studios above the shops says most people don’t find their way up here. The narrow tunnels and passageways through which you wind to reach the roof harken back to the 15th and 16th Century. We really got to see the bones of this Grand Bazar.
Hannah-style does in fact find the perfect scarf to commemorate our visit to the Grand Bazaar. Again, because Sierra starts the negotiation in Turkish, we go straight to the local’s price. Hannah probably got the best deal of the day.
Exhausted from trekking all over the Grand Bazaar, we find an air-conditioned café and quickly consume two grand plates of french fries while the girls play team backgammon on the new board.
Obsessed with sorting out whether we got taken or not by the backgammon guy, Laura and I take to the internet searching for “hand-made Turkish backgammon Boards. ” When we find nearly the same board complete with mother of pearl in lay we’re convinced we got had. Relief sets in when the match indicates the price worked slightly in our favor. It wasn’t a steal of a deal but without Sierra’s negotiating savvy we were certainly just another tourist suckered at the Grand Bazaar.
Special thanks to Sierra and Aleah for another grand day in Turkey.
Comments