SOUTHSIDE SITE HOPPING

Hannah McDonald
Jul 1, 2022
10 min read

Updated: Jul 6, 2022

Selfoss • Gluggafoss Waterfall • Seljalandsfoss Waterfall • Rutshellir Caves • Skogafoss Waterfall • Dyrhólaey Viewpoint • Reyniskirkja Church • Reynisfjara Beach • Kirkjubæjarklaustur

The First Campervan Night

--- Map Point A ---

Absolutely freezing, I wake up for the first time at…honestly, I have no idea what time this happened. The sun blinds me when I lift my eye mask (despite it being the middle of the night), and I desperately search for more layers to keep me warm. Apparently, we might actually need to use the small heater for our van (although that requires us to pay for electricity at the campsite). Next, I wake up to Joelle sleeping diagonally across our small sleeping pad, trying to find warmth (from me) and a more comfortable fit, as the bed is barely tall enough for us. As a result, I am sleeping in some sort of L shape on the corner of the sleeping pad. Finally, we both wake up at 10:30am, absolutely cooking in our van and desperately shedding layers. The temperature shift overnight was drastic, leaving us conflicted on whether electricity and the heater are needed. At least we are recharged for our adventures with 10.5 hours of sleep!

Exploring Selfoss

--- Map Point A ---

Quickly driving through our first Icelandic town, Selfoss, yesterday did not satisfy our desire to explore life in Iceland, so we decide to start our day with runs (separately, of course, because I cannot possibly keep up with Jojo). Wanting to get downtown to the river, I—naturally—begin running in the opposite direction (although I do not know that yet). Did I mention I am navigationally challenged? Running through neighborhoods, I see little girls jumping on a trampoline in their backyard while spraying each other with the hose, sparking similar memories from my own childhood. It is heart warming to see that, despite living in remarkably different places and having different experiences, similar things bring us joy. Oh, did I mention it is a beautiful day (beautiful enough to play in the water in the backyard), and we are running in shorts and t-shirts. A lovely and unexpected surprise. Curious as to how I have not found downtown yet (the campsite said we are only a 10 minute walk from it), I eventually load a map on my phone, only to realize I am, in fact, going the opposite direction. Oops. Finally, I intersect the river, just in time to enjoy a little before running back to the campsite. For reference on river size, Joelle and I were debating whether it was a lake or a river on our way over it yesterday, and we settled on river because, despite the size, there was a current.

A Tale of Two Spoons

--- Map Point A ---

With our campervan, Joelle rented cooking supplies, including a stove, plates, bowls, utensils, and more. With that, we were given two spoons, which we used for lunch yesterday. As we are getting ready to make breakfast, Joelle says to me, “we threw away our spoons.” I quickly respond, “no we did not,” thinking she was referring to a time that I actually did throw away her reusable bamboo spoon (a mistake I will never outlive). Unfortunately, that was not the case. We did, in fact, throw away our spoons from the rental company. Remember those meal packs we were slightly disappointed with and munched on throughout the afternoon yesterday? Well, to support our munching, we left a spoon in each bag. Then, we did not take them out before throwing away the (unfinished) meal packs. (Pro tip: Do not keep your utensils in your throw-away meal pack.)

The Locking Gas Cap (a saga continuation)

--- Map Point A ---

Remember yesterday’s story about getting gas? Here is a refresher: The campervan has a locking gas cap that neither of us know how to use; after way too long twisting, turning, and wiggling the cap, we got it unlocked and locked three times; we still do not totally understand how a locking gas cap works. Before leaving Selfoss, we figured a full gas tank would be a good idea, given the long drive ahead. Today’s progression of gas-getting events goes something like this:

Joelle pulls into a pump (after first going to one on the wrong side of the van) and asks me to get the gas.
Momentarily forgetting yesterday’s saga, I easily agree.
The reality of what I agreed to now sinks in, although I am not concerned since I successfully did it three times yesterday.
After several minutes of failing to open the locking gas cap, I knock on the door and ask Joelle to try it.
After she fails several times, I try again.
After I fail several more times, she tries again.
After she fails several more times, I try again and ask Joelle to Google it.
Google supplies numerous ways to jerry-rig the locking gas cap open if you get it stuck or loose your key. (Unfortunately, cannot do that on a rental.)
I continue trying to unlock the cap with no luck.
Joelle looks in the car manual for some instructions, finding nothing.
I continue trying to unlock the cap with no luck.
I get tired of trying (and maybe a little frustrated), so I start Googling, only to find the same (unhelpful) results as Joelle.
Joelle continues trying to unlock the cap with no luck.
Joelle returns to the car defeated.
I ask Joelle if we can ask someone around the gas station for a tutorial.
We search the gas station but do not know who to ask for help.
Having sat at the gas pump without pumping gas for about 20 minutes, we decide to move to a parking spot.
Joelle states (not for the first time) that we do not actually need gas right now, and I remind her this problem is not going away.
I continue trying to unlock the cap with no luck.
Joelle continues trying to unlock the cap with no luck.
Defeated, we both return to the car.
I ask Joelle what that number from the rental company was for roadside assistance (yes, I said—typed—roadside assistance).
Joelle calls roadside assistance.
I continue Googling for a solution.
I (finally) find a video that explains how to use a locking gas cap and, after watching it, exclaim “well, he makes it look easy!”
Joelle, on the phone with roadside assistance, asks how to open the locking cap, and they respond, “it is easy…you just put the key in and turn it.” Pretty sure we have been doing that…
Meanwhile, I try once more to unlock the cap (carefully executing what the video explains) and, to my surprise, it pops off!!
In an attempt to prevent this from happening again, Joelle asks roadside assistance, “is there a trick?” I respond for them because I finally found the trick.
We return to a gas pump; I successfully unlock the gas cap; we successfully fill the tank; and I successfully lock the gas cap. Now, I actually understand how to use the locking gas cap.

This is a classic instance of something being so simple that you cannot explain it, yet someone is completely lost. Finally with a full tank of gas (an endeavor that took over a half hour), we call Mom to point out all the ways she and Dad prepared us to travel internationally on our own and the one way they did not–how to open a locking gas cap. She responds, “funny thing is Hannah…I have never used a locking gas cap.” For those of you in a similar predicament, here is a video explaining how to use a locking gas cap (I cannot find the one I used…see, not that simple…so this is a different one). Seems simple? Well, would it have been if you did not receive any instruction?

Gluggafoss Waterfall

--- Map Point B ---

Our first stop of the day is off the tour bus route, leaving us to enjoy Iceland’s serenity almost alone. Gluggafoss, or Window Falls, pours through soft rock into a lush, green valley that is lined with numerous waterfalls. This waterfall used to be a vertical tunnel, visible only through three small windows in the rock. When the Hekia Volcano erupted in 1947, sediment filled in the waterfall, and it is only now carving its path to its former glory. The peaceful scenery made for a perfect lunch spot, as we appreciated the beauty of nature and no crowds.

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

--- Map Point C ---

Our next stop requires our trusted campervan to tackle its first (with us) gravel road. Honestly, I have no idea what this van can do (other than the warnings from the rental company), so I start slow, crawling through the beautiful flower-filled field lined with waterfalls trickling down green mountains. So far, the van seems pretty tough.

The bliss of no tour busses abruptly ends as we pull into the parking lot (the plus: there is a bathroom). This beautiful waterfall drops over a cliff with a cave beneath, allowing you to walk behind the waterfall (warning: you will get drenched). Rainbows dance in the water as we walk around the falls, and our (new) waterproof sneakers are put to the test when the wind shifts, soaking us in water. A stranger snaps what will likely be one of the coolest trip pictures, capturing a rainbow arching over us and through the waterfall. Shoutout to our unknown photographer.

Rutshellir Caves

--- Map Point D ---

Cruising down the road to our next waterfall, we spot a small cave entrance buried in the rocky mountainside. Immediately intrigued, we make an unplanned stop by quickly pulling off the road (into a safe parking lot, do not worry). We climb over the ladder that allows visitors to “jump the fence” and walk to our new discovery. On 90 farms around South Iceland, upwards of 200 man-made caves—like this one—exist. According to the informational sign, the main cave stored hay, and the smaller cave “was probably a smithy.” I am not familiar with ‘a smithy,’ but I am glad we stopped. After entering the cave, we are greeted by a wooden pathway leading us to numerous elves lining the inside of the cave. Have we found a home of faerie folk?

Skogafoss Waterfall

--- Map Point E ---

Our last waterfall (but not last stop) of the day powerfully rolls over a cliff, just next to a campsite (similar to the ones we are using). This waterfall has a steep set of stairs scaling the hill next to it, allowing visitors to go to the top, overlooking the waterfall and the valley. We are now on a mild time crunch (20 minutes per stop) to ensure we make it to our campsite before the office closes for the night and new campers cannot enter (10:00pm). To accommodate this timeline, Joelle begins running up the (metal and somewhat shaky) staircase, as others hesitantly and slowly step up it. I make it about halfway to the top via running before my burning legs make me retreat to a brisk walk (hike?), leaving Joelle waiting for me at the top. At the top, the peacefully flowing river turns powerful over the cliff, and the birds fly around the waterfall, nesting in the nearby cliff. Keeping to our timeline, we are now running back down the stairs, occasionally being slowed by others nervously step down.

Dyrhólaey Viewpoint

--- Map Point F ---

Driving out to the view point, we cross two bodies of water with nothing but the road between them, almost making it feel like we are driving on water. It is beautiful, and I definitely would not want to fall off the road here. Getting out of our car, we are blasted with wind. Fighting that wind up the hill to the viewpoint (it feels like we are pushing something large and heavy up the hill), we are excited to see the beautiful arches in the cliffs, only to find we can just see the small one a spec of the large one. Apparently, this is not the best point to view the arches from. It is a nice outlook nonetheless, and on the other side, we get a nice view of the black sand beach, sea stacks, and some animals (resembling ducks) resting on the beach.

Furry Friends

--- Map Points F to G ---

The island is covered with sheep roaming freely, often close to the road (fortunately, we have yet to see any in the middle of the road). They are super cute, often grazing and sometimes running, jumping, and playing. We also regularly encounter horses in the fields, usually behind fences. Some sheep and horses are grazing near the road as we pass, so I go to make some new friends. The sheep run away, but the horse talks to me with a “neigh.”

Reyniskirkja Church

--- Map Point G ---

Thinking we are passing the Vík i Myrdal Church, which is found on many postcards throughout the island, we pull off the road to walk around and snap some pictures. Later, when passing another church (the actual Vík i Myrdal Church), we discover the other was actually the Reyniskirkja Church. Both were pretty, nestled in the hill side surrounded by lots of green. They looked more or less the same to us.

Basalt Columns at Reynisfjara Beach

--- Map Point H ---

Our next stop is a beach lined with basalt columns, and there is a full view of the arches we tried to see at our last stop. Lesson learned: This beach can check two boxes at once (basalt columns and arches). Once again, wind seeks to sweep us away as we walk down the beach and climb the basalt columns. The high winds certainly create a unique beach experience: “That’s one windy beach.” The columns are relatively easy to climb (after waiting for all the other tourists to leave), although slightly more challenging to slide back down. The front columns are worn while the back ones are still clean cut, indicating the large number of people climbing them. The tall columns are beautiful, leaving us in awe of what nature is able to create.

Kirkjubæjarklaustur Campsite

--- Map Point I ---

The campsite office closes and stops welcoming new campers at 10:00pm. We arrive at 9:59pm to find a closed gate. Uh oh. Joelle runs up the hill and, fortunately, finds office staff to take payment and open the gate. We drive the open field, taking in the view and selecting our spot for the night. Wanting to enjoy the view, we park in the middle of the field, looking up toward the highland cliffs (two other vans did the same). By morning, we realize that was not the best location…the middle of a field does not offer any wind protection, so we listened to it pound against the car overnight and into the morning. (Pro tip: Park next to something that offers wind protection for the night, whether that be trees, a cliffside, or a building). Despite all the effort for a good van-view, we spent the evening in the kitchen making and having dinner, rather than in the van looking at the view. Before bed, we layer-up with multiple pairs of pants and multiple jackets zipped over us, wanting to avoid last night’s freezing and still not wanting to pay for electricity. As we “turn off the lights” by pulling on our eye masks, the midnight sun continues to light up the sky.

HM

SOUTHSIDE SITE HOPPING

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