NORTHEAST SITE HOPPING

Glaumbær • Hvítserkur • Glanni Waterfall • Paradise Hollow (Paradísarlaur) • Borgarnes • Snorrastadir Farm Holidays

Flexibility – another day where its importance is evident. Joelle had three stops planned for today, including a church, viking museum, and hot pot (tiny hot spring); we did not go to any. Rather, we embarked on some different adventures:

Glaumbær: Old Turf Farmhouse and Museum Exhibition

--- Map Point B ---

Iceland is filled with many natural wonders, which we have been hopping to and from throughout the trip. During our journey, we have heard numerous languages and met and conversed with people from many places. Unlike many of our other trips, however, our interactions with Icelandic people in learning about their lives and culture has been relatively limited. To learn more about the history of Iceland and the daily lives of the Icelandic people, we visited Glaumbær, an old turf farmhouse and museum exhibition made from the remains of 10th and 11th century buildings found in 2002.

This old Icelandic farm—a complex of separate buildings, united by a central passageway (changed in size and layout overtime)—belonged to Snorri þorfinnsson, a farmer who was supposedly the first son of Europeans to be born on the North American continent. Below is some interesting information we learned and observed during our visit, including a VR experience:

• The turf insulated the house. (We saw them restoring the turf during our visit).

• The clothing on display, based on our experience in Iceland thus far, does not seem sufficient to stay warm in an Icelandic summer, let alone an Icelandic winter. However, according to the pamphlet, since everyone wore wool and the houses were insulated with turf, the rooms did not need to be heated.

• The main living quarters, partitioned into three sections, slept 22 people with two people in each (very small) bed.

• In the living quarters, each person also worked and ate on their beds. Women’s beds were along the window because their spinning and sewing required light, and the men combed wool and made ropes from horse hair along the opposite wall. While working, a member of the household may entertain the others by reading a saga or reciting poetry.

• Friction was avoided with mutual respect, tact, and a privacy agreement: “What someone kept under their pillow was as secure as if it had been locked in a safe.”

• The long pantry, as Joelle states, “basically just stores a bunch of animal parts. Yum.”

• Lack of trade with other countries resulted in extensive manufacturing of wooden eating utensils.

• The ice skates appeared to be a bone with some rope to tie around footwear.

Hvítserkur

--- Map Point C ---

The cyclist from Ireland we met last night made a couple recommendations for sites to visit, with one being Hvítserkur–a sea stack shaped like a rhino. We asked some questions about getting there, and he explained that the road is unpaved with potholes, resulting in a need to go slowly and carefully, but passable. Ultimately, I asked if it was worth it, and he said, “I cycled 30 kilometers to see rocks.” That simple statement seems to sum-up many Icelandic adventures, but we add it to our list for today anyway because the beauty and power of nature never cease to amaze us (and we are not cycling).

Turning off the Ring Road, Joelle does a little research on the new roads–716 to 711. Apparently, they make t-shirts with “I survived 711” printed on them, and we start our journey hoping we will too. I begin navigating our campervan through the pothole obstacle course (although there is nowhere to avoid them in certain stretches so we bump over the smallest). Safely pulling into the parking lot, we laugh at how dirty the other cars are, only to realize ours is just as dirty.

Our walk down the path is accompanied by the inevitable wind gusts, but fortunately, the more challenging road has deterred most tourists. Soon, the sea stack comes into view, and sure enough, it is shaped like a rhino dipping its head to drink the seawater. Since the tide is out, the rocky beach below is exposed. To get a better view, we begin climbing down the cliff side to the beach (this is a thing people do, not just something we randomly decide to take on). A waterfall flows down the cliff and into the ocean as birds fly around the sea stack. It is beautiful, peaceful, and worth the drive (in my opinion), although I do not want to be stuck here when the tide comes back in.

Ready to make our way back out, we realize we quite literally need to climb up the cliff. Somehow the “up” seems more challenging than the “down.” Joelle already made her way to the top (while I took pictures), and now I am standing at the bottom of the cliff asking, “how did you do this??” She replies, “just find something sturdy and make your way up.” Seeing nothing sturdy, I assume Spiderman stance and, somehow scale the cliff with my toes pushed in and fingers grasping at dirt and pebbles. (I feel like I am making this sound more treacherous than it was…Joelle disagrees: “It was treacherous” …we were fine.)

Ready for a break from the brainpower of driving through an obstacle course, Joelle volunteers to get us back out road 711. Throughout our journey, rain splatters the windshield; the wind gusts; and the rivers we cross (via bridge) rage. To give you a visual, I brave the weather, get out of the car, and snap a picture (you’re welcome).

We survived road 711 (and saw cool rocks).

Glanni Waterfall and Paradise Hollow (Paradísarlaur)

--- Map Point D ---

“Iceland trolls are known to be greedy and many like to eat human flesh, especially the flesh of disobedient children. They often capture people or lure them into their caves. They are capable of magical tricks and casting spells, but their problem is a lack of intelligence. In most cases captured humans easily manage to outsmart them and escape. However, in some legends Trolls can also be kind and reasonable. People are often generously rewarded if lending a hand to a Troll in trouble.” -Sigurður Hróarsson, 2020

As we enter an area rumored to be the home of trolls, we have two things going for us: (1) Joelle’s intelligence and ability to outsmart and (2) the fact that it is summer (trolls turn to stone in the daylight). The landscape is lava rock covered in green moss, and the consistent rain makes it wet and dreary. Walking the trail to our first destination (another waterfall), we are completely alone (potentially excluding magical folklore). This is the first place we have been where there is truly not another person around (I know our impressive pictures make it look otherwise).

Our first “attraction” is the Glanni waterfall–a relatively small waterfall (compared to the many others we have seen) that cascades down the valley below the (somewhat small) cliffs on which we stand. The viewpoint is built right on the edge of the cliff, so standing on the edge and looking down shows the plummet into the water.

According to the blog post Joelle read (not the guide book), there is a cove up the trail. Not knowing exactly where we are going, we continue up the main trail until we find a small trail deviating from the main trail. This new starts as gravel and then turns to a narrow path beaten over the greenery.

Joelle: “Is this right? This doesn’t seem right, but I don’t want to turn back if it is and we’re already this far.”

Hannah: “Let’s just go a little further.”

Joelle: “This feels like where the trolls would get us.”

Hannah: “Okay, let’s go back.”

Back on the main trail, we reach another decision point: (1) Down the stairs to the right or (2) forward on the main path, despite a big boulder in the middle.

Hannah: “Which way should we go?”

Joelle: “Typically, a boulder in the path means not to go that way. The stairs seem more likely.”

Hannah: “Let’s try that first.”

Sure enough, the stairs to the right lead us to a beautiful cove (although that did not stop us from eventually going the other way too). A pool of water lies below tall rock walls, with a stream flowing into it between those walls. The water is crystal clear, inviting a swim despite how freezing that would be. Quite simply, it is magical, and we recommend a visit if you find yourself in the area.

Supposedly, there is another waterfall to be found.

Hannah: “Do you want to try the other path?”

Joelle: “I don’t know. Do you?”

Hannah: “Sure! We are already wet and cold so may as well.”

After backtracking, passing the boulder in the trail, and pushing a tree branch to the side, the area opens up, revealing the winding river and a waterfall in the far distance.

Hannah: “Is that the other waterfall.”

Joelle: “I don’t know. The person from the blog didn’t go to it.”

Hannah: “Well, that’s the only waterfall I see.”

We recede to the van, only to realize we are completely drenched (I am talking soaked through two layers of pants). Why did we not wear our rain pants?

Borgarnes Camping to Snorrastadir Farm Holidays

--- Map Point E to F ---

Finding good campsites every night has been relatively easy and consistent. Each town has one (and only one); the price is only slightly variable ($20-$35); latest arrival is around 9:00pm; and the amenities are consistent with a community kitchen, lounge space, bathrooms, showers (sometimes for an extra fee), the occasional laundry for purchase (which we have not used despite wearing the same clothes day and night), and an option to purchase electricity. As a result, we are utterly confused when arriving at the Borgarnes campsite at 8:20pm. We see a field next to what appears to be a lake (although it is completely still, so maybe it is just mud), along with some electricity plug-ins and only two small buildings. “Umm…where is the kitchen? Those just look like bathrooms.” Looking around, it quickly becomes clear that this campsite will not work for tonight due to the lack of kitchen and inability to use our camp stove in the raging wind.

Joelle quickly begins Googling, trying to find another campsite in the direction we are driving tomorrow. The only problem? There really are not any towns on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula; it is a national park. Another problem? It is quickly approaching 8:30pm, and most campsites require you to arrive by 9:00pm. With some luck, Joelle finds one (her skills are impressive)–Snorrastadir Farm Holidays! Google Maps informs us they close at 9:00pm and our expected arrival is 9:01pm. We go for it anyway (not the first time we arrive just before reception closes).

Taking a turn on the road leading to the campsite, we feel as if we are in the middle of nowhere (a common feeling here). Are we sure there is a campsite? Soon, a farm comes into view: There is a house, a barn with cars and campers parked in front, and a few cabins. The “Reception” sign points to the house. Seeing as it is exactly 9:00pm, I jump out of the car and bound up the steps, hoping to catch them before they leave for the night (everything in Iceland seems to close right on the dot—except nature, of course). The door is locked; however, the sign instructs me to ring the doorbell and respect their operating hours. Barely within operation hours, I ring the doorbell, as a teenage boy behind me says “excuse me.” I assume these are other last-minute campers for the night; then, I see his key as he nods to the door. It dawns on me…this is a residential house with a family living here. Just as I am realizing this and before the boy can get his key in the door, a man opens the door and welcomes me inside. Soon, we have a campsite with electricity, and I am pointed toward the water closet (with free showers) and kitchen. Yay!

As a bonus, the common space and kitchen is huge; it is in the barn and lined with couches (a comfy luxury). The barn loft is filled with beds and other travelers sleeping, so we whisper while cooking dinner (pasta night!), feeling lucky we found a good campsite for the night (the wind is still blowing hard outside).

Glaumbær

Glaumbær: Clothing

Glaumbær: VR experience

Glaumbær

Glaumbær: Ice skates

Hvítserkur

Hvítserkur

Road 711

Glanni waterfall

Paradise Hollow